Who was the prevailing muse of the Autumn 2016 season? Not some grand woman of the ravine or 17th-century mistress queen, however the common mall goth! For sure you bear in mind that creature of the first aughts: born from suburbia to haunt Hot Topics in black JNCOs or fishnets, their heads doused in red Wild Panic.
There were echoes of her within the sulky nymphs that walked the runway in wonderful collection of Marc Jacobs, for which François Nars (makeup artist ) used matte black lips and alien bleached brows, whereas at Louis Vuitton, Pat McGrath whipped up a subversive burgundy lip stain to models’ come-as-you-are messy hair. However it absolutely was at Rihanna’s Fenty x Puma collaboration debut that the trend extremely took form, once the singer asked Pat McGrath to recreate golden godgirl Gigi Hadid with a slick vinyl pout and white paint searched through her roots. Therewith that stamp of approval from the last word beauty bellwether, the whole look appeared set for a comeback—but the way to execute the ’90s revive for the here and now?
The secret is to male things fresh. Take Korean model Sora Choi, whose personal style reminds a goth-inflected Jane Lane. Walking around Paris in combat creepers and leather jackets, she makes ebony statement lips and a gritty shag haircut look wholly stylish, because of youthful flash of skin—shredded fishnets, or the décolleté, highlighted by a spiked collar. Lately, Fernanda Ly, too, has put her look into gothic area, with a dark stain and oversized items kept grounded by shining skin and this pretty pop of pastel pink hair. And, of course, there’s Badass Rihanna herself, who added lank gothic strands for soft curls in her Fenty x Puma collab, adding a spirited bit as she whipped her head back and forth.
When I, too, decided to take the look for a spin, I focused first on crafting a healthy canvas by mixing a hydrating cream with foundation into my faceskin and adding concealer below my eyes and around my nose. Nearly-flawless skin is the absolute key to intense gothic makeup—without it, I find, the colour contrast highlightsevery flaw—and I have chosen to approach the whole makeup by distinguishing on one single statement at the face A deep slate shadow I have blended into the socket and added a little bit of lipbalm to make a more romantic look.
Starting from scratch the next day, I opt for matte black and swatch it onto my lips to sheer horror. Despite my clean complexion, I look instantly sallow; a coworker declares I look dead, while my less-than-perfect lip shape is spotlit for the world to see. At a loss, I decided to take a cue from Dior’s Fall show, where makeup artist Peter Philips gave a noir lip polish by topping it with clear gloss, and so learn that a dewy dark pout is imminently more wearable—especially when paired with a kicky plaid kilt and boyish black hoodie. As for the nails, exchanging long jet talons for a neat pitch violet manicure keeps my head-to-toe blacks from looking dated or dull.
It’s those playful touches that make it all work and singlehandedly make the case for the return of the mall goth. But this style is for brave girls I think.